Before freezers and grocery stores, the Newfoundland pantry held dried peas and salt pork, and out of those two humble ingredients came one of the province’s great soups. The peas would soak overnight and then simmer for hours with a piece of salt pork or a leftover salt beef bone, turning thick and golden. On a cold, blowy day, a steaming bowl of pea soup was the difference between shivering and being warm to the bone. Many a family ate it with toutons or doughboys floating in it like little dumplings.
What makes it great is that slow, patient simmering that turns plain yellow split peas into a rich, velvety soup with a deep, smoky-savoury flavour from the pork. It’s frugal, filling and endlessly forgiving — you can add more vegetables, more water or more pork and it will still be perfect. Serve it with a splash of vinegar or a grind of pepper, and save the salt pork to chop back into the pot.
