Hokey pokey ice cream — vanilla ice cream studded with nuggets of crunchy honeycomb toffee — was created in New Zealand in the 1940s and has been a national favourite ever since. The name comes from a music-hall song popular at the time, and the flavour is now as Kiwi as pavlova.
The honeycomb is the star: molten sugar and golden syrup whipped with baking soda into a foamy toffee that sets shatteringly crisp. Folded through soft vanilla ice cream it gives every scoop a delightful crunch, and it’s just as good sprinkled over dessert bowls as it is eaten straight.

