Moules frites is Belgium’s national dish in one glorious plate: plump mussels steamed open in white wine, shallots, and celery, served with a cone of crisp golden fries. It is loud, messy, and absolutely right.
Restaurants across Belgium pile them high and let you work your way through the pot, using an empty shell as tongs. Soak the mussels well and discard any that stay closed after cooking.


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