Samoan Octopus in Coconut Cream (Fe’e Popo)

Octopus, or fe’e, has been gathered from Samoan reefs for generations, and cooking it in coconut cream is the classic way to coax tenderness from its firm flesh. In the villages, the morning’s catch is cleaned on the beach and simmered over a fire until the sauce turns thick and glossy. It is a special-occasion dish, served with pride at family gatherings.

What makes it great: time does the magic — the long, gentle simmer relaxes the octopus until it yields to a fork, while the coconut cream reduces into a rich, savory sauce that coats every piece. It is simple, humble cooking that tastes far more luxurious than its ingredients suggest, and it is wonderful soaked up with taro or rice.

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