Ika lu is the fisherman’s version of Tonga’s famous leaf-wrapped cooking. Whatever the day’s catch — snapper, trevally, or tuna — gets nestled in taro leaves with onion and coconut cream and steamed until the fish is just cooked through. It is a favorite in villages where the ocean is the supermarket and the leaves grow at the back of the house.
What makes it great: the delicate fish stays remarkably moist inside its leafy blanket, while the taro leaves soak up coconut cream and turn silky and sweet. It is lighter than lu sipi but just as comforting, with a clean, ocean-fresh finish. Serve it with boiled taro and lime wedges for squeezing.

