Kitsune Udon

Kitsune means fox, and the story goes that foxes love fried tofu, which is why this Osaka-born noodle bowl is topped with a sweetened abura-age pouch. It is a temple-town classic, humble and quick, with thick, chewy udon noodles swimming in a clear, savory dashi broth. On cold days there is little in Japan more comforting than wrapping your hands around a steaming bowl of it, and it is forgiving enough for a beginner cook to nail on the first try.

A sweet tofu pouch in a warm, clean broth

The broth is light and clean with a gentle soy finish, the noodles are slippery and satisfying, and the fried tofu pouch soaks up the sweetened liquid until it is almost custardy. Sliced scallions and a pinch of shichimi togarashi brighten the top, and a few slices of pink fish cake make it look festive. Simmer the pouches in the broth just long enough to warm them through, and slurp the noodles loudly; it is part of the pleasure.

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