Popiah

Popiah is the fresh, unwrapped spring roll of the Peranakan (Nyonya) kitchen, a soft crepe rolled around a savory filling instead of being fried. The star of the filling is jicama, cooked slowly with shrimp until sweet and tender, and the whole thing is built to order at hawker stalls, while the name means thin skin, because the skill of stretching a crepe so thin you can see through it is passed down through generations of Nyonya cooks. It is a snack, a light lunch, and a party food all at once, and it is often served at festive gatherings as a symbol of good fortune.

Soft crepe, juicy filling, a little bit of crunch

The crepe is delicate and chewy, the filling is juicy-sweet with a savory depth from shrimp and sweet bean sauce, and the crushed peanuts and fried shallots add crunch, while a stripe of chili sauce gives it a kick. The lettuce leaf keeps everything cool and crisp, and making the filling ahead of time is the trick, because the rolls themselves take minutes to assemble. Popiah is messy, wonderful, and never quite as neat as the ones from the stall, which is part of the charm.

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