Appam

Appam is the signature pancake of Kerala, made from a batter of rice and coconut that ferments overnight. It is cooked in a rounded pan so the edges turn thin and lacy while the center stays soft and pillowy. In Kerala homes, a stack of appams with stew is the classic Sunday breakfast, and the batter is often started the night before as a matter of routine.

Lace-edged pancakes with a tender heart

The rim is crisp and delicately browned, almost like a brittle wafer, while the middle is so soft it nearly melts on the tongue. Appams have a gentle sweetness from coconut and a faint tang from the ferment that pairs beautifully with egg curry or chicken stew. Eaten with the fingers, folded into stew, they are Kerala in a single bite, and one is never quite enough. Appam pans with gently curved sides are easy to find, but a small nonstick skillet does the job just as well at home.

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