Salmon has sustained the people of the Pacific Northwest for millennia, and cooking it over an open flame is one of the oldest traditions on the coast. Long before the grill was invented, First Nations cooks roasted salmon on cedar stakes beside the fire, and that smoky, char-edged character is still what makes grilled salmon taste like home here.
What makes this version great is how little it asks of the fish. A simple maple-mustard glaze — a nod to the sugar maples and the orchards of the Fraser Valley — lacquers the fillets as they cook, while the high heat gives you crisp, golden edges and a moist, flaky centre. It’s the dish I make the moment the first spring chinook shows up at the market.

