Chelo Kabab Koobideh

Koobideh is Iran’s national kebab, the one served at every weekend grill outing and at chelo kabab houses from Tehran to Los Angeles. Ground lamb or beef is kneaded with grated onion and a few spices until silky, then pressed onto wide flat skewers and grilled over charcoal until charred at the edges and still juicy in the middle. On warm evenings, whole families gather around the grill, and the air fills with the scent of charcoal and melting butter.

Smoky edges, butter-brushed and impossibly tender

The outside gets a faint smoky char while the inside stays soft and almost creamy, thanks to the onion and a pinch of baking soda. Baste the skewers with saffron butter as they cook, and the whole table smells like a Persian holiday. Serve over a mound of saffron rice with a grilled tomato, slices of raw onion, and a generous dusting of sumac. There is no more beloved plate in Iranian cooking, and no better reason to fire up the grill.

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