Lamb shanks were once a cheap cut, but New Zealand chefs turned them into a winter institution in the 1990s, and home cooks followed. The shank’s marrow-rich meat collapses into tenderness after hours of gentle braising, and the reduced gravy is the best part.
Serve the shanks on a pile of creamy mashed potatoes with the glossy sauce spooned over — the meat should come away with a fork. It’s the ultimate cold-night dinner, and leftovers are even better.

