Latkes

Latkes are the potato pancakes of Hanukkah, fried in oil to remember the miracle of the temple lamp that burned for eight days. Ashkenazi Jewish cooks brought them to Israel, where they join sufganiyot as the two great fried foods of the holiday. Every family guards its recipe, arguing over onion-to-potato ratios and the perfect crunch, and they are also simply a wonderful winter dinner with a bowl of soup.

Lacy, golden pancakes with shattering edges

Grated potatoes and onion, squeezed bone-dry, fry up into pancakes that are crisp and lacy at the edges and tender within. The contrast of the shattering crust and the soft, warm interior is the whole point, and a dusting of salt makes it sing. They are traditionally served with applesauce, sour cream, or both, and the debate over which is correct is as old as the pancakes themselves. Eat them hot, straight from the pan, before anyone has a chance to argue.

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