Meat Sambousek

Sambousek is the most popular appetizer of Ramadan in the Gulf, fried fresh every evening and gone within minutes of hitting the table. The crisp pastry triangles hide a filling of spiced minced meat and onion, though cheese and vegetable versions are just as common. Making them at home fills the kitchen with the smells of the holy month, and they are always worth the folding. The fillings change with the cook, but the ritual does not — hundreds are folded in the afternoon and fried as the sun goes down.

The Ramadan table’s first empty platter

The shell is shattering and golden, and the filling inside is juicy and warmly spiced with cumin, coriander, and a hint of cinnamon. They are best eaten hot, with a spoon of yogurt or a squeeze of lemon to balance the richness. Freeze a batch before frying and you will always have them ready for guests — if they last that long. They are equally good baked for a lighter version, though nothing beats the fried shell.

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