In the sago lands of Papua New Guinea, the starch from the sago palm is the daily bread, and cooks are endlessly inventive with it. Mixed with flaked smoked fish and a little coconut milk, it becomes a simple batter that fries into crisp, lacy fritters. They are the kind of snack that appears when guests arrive and disappears just as fast.
What makes these fritters great is the contrast of textures: shatteringly crisp edges, a tender chew inside, and the savory pop of smoked fish in every bite. They need nothing more than a squeeze of lime and a bit of chili sauce. They also happen to be gluten-free, if that matters to you.

