Samgyeopsal

Samgyeopsal means three-layer flesh, a nod to the alternating layers of fat and meat in pork belly, and it is the most social meal in Korea. Thick slices are grilled at the table until golden, then cut into pieces and wrapped in lettuce with garlic and ssamjang. It has been a national favorite since the 1970s, when tabletop grilling became the great Korean pastime. The cooking and eating happen together, which is the whole point.

Sizzling pork, crisp edges, and endless little wraps

The belly turns golden and crisp at the edges while staying juicy within, its rich flavor cut by the fresh lettuce and pungent garlic. A dab of ssamjang, a slice of raw garlic, and a piece of pork make the perfect bite. Grill it in small batches so the slices crisp rather than steam, and pour yourself something cold to go with it. It is simple food made wonderful by the ritual of cooking and eating together, and it turns any table into a party.

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