Sufganiyot

Sufganiyot are the jelly-filled doughnuts of Hanukkah, fried in oil to honor the miracle of the temple lamp. They were brought to Israel from Europe, where they were known as pączki, and transformed into the jam-filled rounds the country devours every December. Bakeries begin selling them weeks early, and the annual debate over the best filling is a national sport.

Pillowy doughnuts with a jammy surprise

A good sufganiya is golden, puffed, and impossibly light, with a crisp shell that gives way to a tender, eggy crumb. The strawberry jam inside is warm and molten, and the snowfall of powdered sugar on top is generous by law, or at least by tradition. Fresh out of the fryer, they are a cloud of warmth and sweetness that disappears in three bites. They are best the same day, so fry them in batches and do not look away from the pot, and your kitchen will smell like the bakery of your dreams.

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