Kapisi pulu — literally ‘cabbage and corned beef’ — is Tongan home cooking at its most honest. Tinned corned beef, cabbage and onion are layered and baked, sometimes with coconut cream, until the cabbage turns sweet and the beef melts into it.
It is warm, savoury and faintly sweet, the kind of dish that fills the house with a homely smell. Serve it over rice or with boiled taro for a satisfying lunch.

