Yakitori

Yakitori started at tiny lantern-lit stalls in postwar Tokyo, where skewers of chicken were grilled over charcoal and basted with a sweet-soy tare until lacquered. The word means grilled bird, and the ritual is simple: skewer, grill, glaze, eat. At home, a hot skillet or grill pan stands in for the charcoal, and the smell alone will draw everyone into the kitchen. It is the kind of food that makes people gather around a table and linger.

Charcoal smoke and a glossy soy glaze

Proper yakitori is juicy and lightly charred, with caramelized edges, tender scallion centers, and a tare that is salty, sweet, and deeply savory. Each skewer is small enough to keep reaching for, which is exactly the point. Brush on several thin coats of glaze rather than one heavy one for that restaurant shine, crisp the skin first for the best texture, and serve with shichimi togarashi for a gentle heat.

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