Cao Lau (Hoi An Noodle Bowl)

Cao lau is the dish of Hoi An, a noodle bowl that exists only in that ancient town — or so the story goes. The chewy noodles are said to be made with water from a specific well, tossed with pork, herbs, and crispy rice crackers in a small amount of broth. Locals guard the recipe the way other towns guard family jewels. The story goes that true cao lau can only be made with water from Hoi An’s old wells.

Chewy noodles and crispy crackers in a savory, brothy bowl

The noodles are dense and chewy, somewhere between a noodle and a dumpling, and they drink up the concentrated pork broth without turning soft. Slices of five-spice pork, fresh herbs, and bean sprouts keep it light, while the crackly rice crackers on top add a salty crunch. A squeeze of lime and a spoonful of chile brighten every bite. Whatever the water, the balance of chewy noodles, crisp crackers, and savory broth is unforgettable. It is a modest-looking bowl that tastes anything but.

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