Fish and chips arrived in Australia with British settlers in the 19th century, but it was the wave of European migration after World War II that turned it into a national institution, as fish shops opened on every corner of every seaside suburb. Ordering ‘flakes’ — the classic gummy shark — or barramundi, wrapped in paper with hot chips, and eating it on the beach within minutes became one of Australia’s most cherished rituals, complete with the seagulls circling hopefully overhead.
What makes it great is the glorious simplicity of really good frying: crisp, light, golden batter that shatters around sweet, flaky white fish, and fat, floury chips that are crunchy outside and fluffy inside. Splashed with vinegar, shaken with salt, and squeezed with lemon while still hot enough to burn your fingers, it’s the taste of the ocean, the esplanade, and every childhood summer.
