Banh Cuon (Steamed Rice Rolls)

Banh cuon is the steamed rice roll that fills Vietnamese mornings with its delicate, silky sheets. A thin batter of rice flour and tapioca is steamed into translucent sheets, filled with pork and mushrooms, and rolled while still warm. Vendors make them by hand on street corners, and they are worth waking up for. They look delicate but are surprisingly forgiving, and the payoff is enormous. The filling is simple, which lets the silky rice sheets shine.

Silky steamed rice rolls with a savory mushroom filling

The rolls are impossibly delicate, soft as silk, with a gentle chew that gives way to savory pork and earthy wood ear mushrooms. Fried shallots and bean sprouts add crunch, and a bowl of nuoc cham brings the whole plate to life. The batter is thin, so pour it in a whisper and steam each sheet just until set. Eat them warm, one by one, straight from the platter. It is breakfast that feels like a hug.

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