Freekeh Chicken (Freekeh Bil Dajaj)

Freekeh is young green wheat that is roasted over an open fire, which gives it a smoky, nutty character no other grain can match. In Syria it is braised with chicken, onions, and warm spices until the grains are tender and the broth has soaked deep into every bite. This is the dish of Homs and the countryside, served for lunch on cold days and at weddings in enormous pots that feed the whole neighborhood. It is rustic, generous food that tastes of fire and earth, and it needs nothing more than a bowl and a spoon.

Smoky green wheat, slow-cooked with chicken

The freekeh stays slightly chewy, with a toasted, almost buttery flavor that drinks up the cinnamon and allspice. The chicken, browned first and then braised, comes away from the bone in silky shreds. Toasted almonds add crunch, and a spoonful of cool yogurt brightens the whole bowl. Leftovers are even better — the smoky flavor deepens overnight, which is why most cooks make a double pot on purpose.

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