Halva

Persian halva is the comfort dessert of Iranian homes, made for funerals and holidays alike, and eaten with tea or warm bread. Wheat flour is toasted in butter until it turns a deep golden brown, then bound with a saffron-rosewater syrup into a dense, fudgy slab. It is pressed into a pan, scored into diamonds, and topped with slivered almonds or pistachios. It keeps for weeks in a tin, which is exactly why it has become the gift of grief — neighbors bring it to mourning houses so a family has something sweet without lifting a finger.

Sandy, rich, and meltingly sweet

The texture is sandy and rich, almost like a sweet shortbread that melts on the tongue, with the floral notes of saffron and rosewater running through it. A little piece satisfies a big craving. Press it firmly into the pan while warm so it holds together, then let it cool completely before cutting. Serve it in small squares with strong black tea; the bitterness of the tea is the perfect counterpoint.

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