Kafta

Kafta is the everyday kebab of the Levant — ground beef or lamb kneaded with grated onion, parsley, and a warm drift of allspice, then grilled on flat skewers until smoky at the edges. In Lebanon it is cooked over charcoal at family cookouts, but a grill pan or broiler does the job at home. Along with kibbeh, it is one of the two great pillars of the Lebanese grill.

Charred outside, juicy inside, allspice in between

The onion does something wonderful here: grated and squeezed dry, it melts into the meat, keeping the kafta tender while the parsley adds a fresh green note. The allspice and cinnamon give it that unmistakable Lebanese warmth, and a final squeeze of lemon at the table wakes everything up. Do not overmix the meat — a light hand keeps the skewers tender, and wet hands keep the mixture from sticking. Serve kafta in pita with tomatoes, onions, and tahini sauce, or alongside rice, fattoush, and grilled vegetables.

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