Mishkaki (Grilled Beef Skewers)

Mishkaki is the smoky soul of Mombasa’s street food, skewers of beef marinated in a bold blend of spices and grilled over charcoal until the edges char and the air fills with smoke. Vendors tend their grills through the evening, brushing skewers with oil and turning them with an easy rhythm. It is the dish that turns a sidewalk into a feast. Ask anyone from the coast and they will tell you the best mishkaki comes from their own corner vendor.

Street-corner skewers, grilled over coals

The marinade does the work: garlic, ginger, cumin, paprika, and lime juice sink into the beef, while a little oil keeps it moist over the fire. The result is a crust of char and spice that gives way to tender, juicy meat with a faint tang. Traditionally served with lime wedges, raw onion, and kachumbari, mishkaki is equally happy on a dinner plate with ugali. If you do not have a charcoal grill, a hot gas grill or even a cast-iron pan still delivers the flavor.

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