Okoy

Okoy are the crisp, golden shrimp fritters sold on street corners and served at family merienda all over the Philippines. Small whole shrimp and shreds of squash are folded into a light batter and fried until the edges turn lacy and crackling. At home they are the after-school snack that never lasts until dinner — they are quick to make, which means they are also dangerously easy to eat, especially with a garlicky vinegar dip on the side.

Lacy, crunchy edges and pops of shrimp

The shredded squash keeps the fritters tender inside while the edges fry up dark, crisp, and almost lace-like — that contrast is the whole appeal. Tiny shrimp burst with briny sweetness in every bite, and the sharp vinegar-garlic dip is what makes them disappear even faster. Make a double batch, because the first one always goes before it cools — they are at their best within minutes of leaving the oil, so fry in small batches and eat as you go.

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