Sunomono (Cucumber Salad)

Sunomono, meaning vinegared things, is the crisp, cooling salad that Japanese cooks serve alongside grilled fish and rich dishes to refresh the palate. Cucumber is the most familiar version, sliced thin, salted to draw out the water, and dressed with rice vinegar, sugar, and a whisper of soy. Chefs say a good sunomono should wake up your appetite, not fill it, and it belongs on every summer table, ready in minutes with barely more effort than opening a bag of salad.

Bright, tangy, and bracingly cold

Each slice stays snappy and cold under a sweet-tart dressing that cuts straight through rich food, finished with toasted sesame seeds and a hint of ginger. It is the kind of side dish that makes the whole meal feel lighter and cleaner, and it keeps well for a day if you hold the dressing until serving. Salt the cucumbers first and squeeze them well, or the dressing will water down into a sad puddle at the bottom of the bowl.

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