Tahitian Grilled Fish with Lime

Grilling the day’s catch over an open fire is the most ancient way of cooking in French Polynesia, long predating ovens and stoves. On the islands, a beach-side fire, a wire grill, and a whole fish still wriggling from the lagoon are all that is needed — the fish is scored, rubbed with salt and garlic, and turned over the coals until the skin blisters and the flesh steams inside.

What makes it great is the smoke and char against sweet, flaky meat, cut through by sharp lime juice squeezed at the table. It needs nothing more than rice or uru on the side, and the whole ritual — fire, sea, and fish — is half the pleasure. Every island family has a slightly different rub, but salt, garlic, and lime are the constants.

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