Octopus in Coconut Cream (Feke Mo Lolo)

Octopus, or feke, has been gathered from Tongan reefs for centuries. On moonlit nights families wade out with spears and lanterns, and the day’s catch is simmered in coconut cream with onion until the meat turns meltingly tender. In coastal villages, feke mo lolo is a treasured dish passed down through generations, each cook with an opinion about exactly how long to simmer.

What makes it great: sweet, briny octopus in a silky coconut sauce, brightened with lime and warmed with a hint of curry. The sauce is the star — thick, glossy, and made for spooning over boiled taro or rice. It tastes like the ocean and the coconut grove met in one pot.

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