Goi Du Du (Green Papaya Salad)

Goi du du is the green papaya salad of Vietnam, a crunchy, tangy tangle served alongside grilled meats or on its own. Shredded unripe papaya and carrot are tossed with shrimp, pork, and a punchy fish-sauce dressing. It is the bright, sharp note that cuts through rich meals. In Vietnam it is the classic companion to grilled meats, and it disappears in minutes. The dressing does most of the work, so use the best fish sauce you have.

Shredded papaya with a punch of lime, chile, and fish sauce

The papaya is crisp like a great slaw, soaking up a dressing that is salty, sweet, and sour all at once. Boiled pork and sweet shrimp make it substantial, while Thai basil, mint, and crushed peanuts keep it lively. Toss it at the last minute so the papaya stays crunchy, and let everyone add chile to their own taste. It keeps its crunch for a surprising while, so it survives a potluck proudly. Served cold, it is the salad that wakes up your whole table.

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